Archive for May 13th, 2008

13
May
08

Kids Say The Darnest Things

To my great surprise, the student I tutor in English, Nicole, asked me about Tibet last week. I don’t remember how she put it, but she wanted to know what I thought about it. Naturally, this put me in a difficult position. Her mom works in the Communist Party, and grandfather, as I mentioned before, is a veteran of WWII and the Chinese Civil War, having fought for the Communists against the KMT. Do I come right out and tell her what I think of her government’s policies against the Tibetans? Having already demonstrated surprising insight and individualism for a 17-year-old growing up in this environment, could she be looking to share her thoughts with a non-Chinese who won’t report her or tell her parents?

I tried to keep it as neutral as I could. I said from what I could tell, the problem is that people keep overreacting to each other – the Chinese and the Tibetans alike. (The latter is correct in at least some regards, that is, with those Tibetans who screwed things up for other Tibetans by turning non-violent protests into vandalism parties.) People just need to calm down, and talk to each other, and work out their differences peacefully. Pretty safe opinion, I thought, and close enough to my thoughts to make it clear that the Chinese government may also have acted badly.

That’s when I got disappointed. She basically repeated all the things that are said about the Tibetans and the Dalai Lama in the local press, and are probably said in schools. The Dalai Lama was a troublemaker, and he wants to take over the region and disrupt China’s Olympics. He was behind the riots, she told me. I was really left speechless. So what to say here?

I explained that this was largely not true: the Dalai Lama has actually said he supports Tibet remaining part of China for the time being, but with greater autonomy so that Tibetans may live with freedom and justice. He’s on the record supporting the Olympics, and opposing violent protests. I explained that there are parts of the United States, like Puerto Rico, who have voter referendums all the time over the question of independence, and that many other countries also understand that unless people want to secede to enslave people (like the Confederacy), people can secede if they so choose. But the trouble, I explained, with the Dalai Lama, is that many of his followers who are younger are impatient, and not willing to wait for the Dalai Lama’s non-violent strategies. These were the people who were violent during the protests, but they did not represent anyone by themselves. I offered her an analogy to a teapot. I explained that if you boil it, but keep everything clamped down so that nothing can escape, that eventually the teapot will explode. And that, I tried to explain to her, was what I thought happened in Tibet. People who had been mistreated, and the fire burned hotter and hotter with no place for the steam to escape in a constructive manner. So the teapot metaphorically exploded in Tibet: that’s what happed. So unless the fire can be turned down, or the Tibetans are given a means of letting off steam, things will keep happening this way.

But here’s what was really shocking to me. Maybe it shouldn’t have been. But I explained that one thing that Tibetans don’t like is that they are effectively governed like a conquered nation. A few token Tibetans exist in the the “provincial” government, but it’s an open secret that as in the rest of the country, real political power exists mostly in the Communist Party. And curiously, there are no Tibetans to be found amongst the cadres at the actual decision making levels, and every Chairman of the Tibetan Party since 1950 has been Han Chinese from other regions, most recently Hu Jintao himself, before he was elevated to the national party. Nicole responded, well, of course. The Tibetans aren’t ready to rule themselves, she explained. Maybe that will change one day, like in 50 years. Maybe some day, a Tibetan may even be able to be the national Party Chairman and President of all of China.

How sad. I had to let this slide – I had said too much as it was. But perhaps it shows that the idea that the Tibetans are bunch of backward superstitious mountain folk, needing the generosity of the enlightened Han Chinese civilization to improve their lot, is a deeply ingrained one here. In a related note, the other day, Allison and I happened to see a car sporting a rare political bumper sticker. (Shocking, I know, that political bumper stickers are extremely rare here.) The sticker had a map of China, and read, “Tibet, Taiwan, and the Nansha Islands are, always have been, and always shall be, inseparable parts of China!” (The “Nansha Islands” are what the PRC calls the Spratley Islands, a large group of islands disputed between China, Taiwan, Vietnam, the Philippines, and Malaysia.) This was interesting for two reasons. One, it was a restatement of the official government line that some person believed in so deeply that he/she wanted to put it on his/her car. And two, the bumper sticker was in English. Not in Chinese and English, just English. Gee, I wonder who the intended audience of that sticker could have been?

I think I have every right to be creeped out by this. When was the last time you ever heard an American get indignant and say something like, “Puerto Rico is and always shall be an inseparable part of the United States!” Or even something equivalent for Texas or California? I wonder if American readings on history emphasize history’s contingency to a greater extent than the Chinese, who may still have a quasi-Marxist conception of historical destiny. Certainly, one senses here the rise of a deeply nationalistic belief in destiny, as part of a shared narrative where China was mistreated by the nations of the world until, under the Communists, China regained its status in the world, and the rest of the world now has to respect and gaze in awe China’s “peaceful” rise. China may be old as a nation, but Chinese nationalism as such is still quite recent, recent enough such that it finds expression in ways that suggest, not confidence or even patriotism, but rather a very deep insecurity.

13
May
08

It’s Everywhere You Want To Be, Except China 2

After weeks of researching my options, it appears that there’s virtually no chance that I could stay in China past June. I visited the Public Security Bureau on Friday, and they were more than happy to extend my tourist visa for a second time, for a total of 30 more days. But after that, they explained, I may not extend my visa any further. The new rules allow a maximum of two extensions. My original plan was to get a business or work visa that would allow me to stay until the end of July, but it sounds like under the new rules, even if I could get a business visa, none are being currently issued that last any longer than July 1st. Even there, the closest I can get my flight changed to that date would be June 23rd. Hardly worth it considering that the business visa will cost well over $400, compared to $120 for the tourist extension.

So that about settles it. I’ll have to call STA Travel again, and get a flight for around June 9th. This completely throws my summer plans into disarray, since I had originally planned to return just in time to find new housing in Madison, attend the Graduate Seminar in early August, and return to a nice managerial job at an IT help desk that would pay handsomely by graduate student standards. Now, I’ll have to find housing in early June, when I may not have had enough time to earn money for first and last month’s rent, and figure something else out for my employment. This probably means temp agencies, which I’ve not found to be especially reliable for steady, well-paying work.

Still, there is good news, and it has nothing to do with car insurance. This early return to America means that I can also attend Rand Camp this year, which is a pretty sweet consolation prize.

13
May
08

Sichuan Earthquake

I’ve already started getting some inquiries about this, so to allay any concerns: yes, I’m fine. Allison and I didn’t even know there was an earthquake in Sichuan until we actually read it in the news just before Allison headed home this afternoon. Neither of us felt anything here in Beijing. I believe that one story claimed that the earthquake epicenter is about 950 miles away from here, so however severe it may have been, I’m guessing that most people in Beijing wouldn’t have known the difference without it being reported in the media. Though the death toll is beginning to sound gruesome (albeit not quite the level of the Burma cyclone), I have to admit that, perversely enough, I’m a bit disappointed that we didn’t feel anything here.